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Feminism is fashionable. That's the statement we are never supposed to utter, within earshot of either feminists or fashion editors.<br><br>That's because feminists understandably rail against the co-opting of their cause as a "trend", while editors, the press and some fashion designers rankle at the implication that their brave stance for womankind is viewed on a par with the ensemble cast of Sex and the City 2 performing Helen Reddy's empowering 1971 anthem "I Am Woman".<br><br>But feminism is fashionable, insomuch as it is being name-checked by the fashion industry with a striking frequency. Miuccia Prada's spring/summer 2014 collection was based on "the multiplicity of guises that women assume in the course of a day, a lifetime", a notion interpreted by many as fundamentally feminist.<br>For once, however, this feeling didn't start with Miuccia Prada: over the past few years, any female fashion designer or editor seems to be asked their views on the topic. Collections by every designer from Donatella Versace, to Phoebe Philo at C�line, to the London duo Meadham Kirchhoff, have been interpreted as feminist - whether the designers intended it or  [http://www.pcs-systems.co.uk/Images/celinebag.aspx http://www.pcs-systems.co.uk/Images/celinebag.aspx] not.<br><br>Last November, British Elle began a campaign to "rebrand" feminism, inviting feminist publications Vagenda and Feminist Times to work with advertising agencies to rework the terminology.<br>Prada spring/summer 2014 fashion show <br>"What we did was ask, 'Does the word need rebranding?' The only thing that seemed an issue was the word," says Lorraine Candy, Elle's editor-in-chief. "We just asked a question." The response to Elle's question was staggering: a reach of 135 million on Twitter for the campaign, which Candy emphasises "is the biggest thing we've had engagement in, on Twitter, it's extraordinary� I was slightly taken aback by the force of opinion, the need from young women to talk about it� It struck me that this is a debate that everyone is having at the moment," Candy state<br><br>
In [[combinatorics]], the '''skew sum''' and '''direct sum''' of [[permutations]] are two operations to combine shorter permutations into longer ones. Given a permutation ''π'' of length ''m'' and the permutation ''σ'' of length ''n'', the skew sum of ''π'' and ''σ'' is the permutation of length ''m''&nbsp;+&nbsp;''n'' defined by
"If you look at women's magazines in the last year, you'll see the word being used more than I think it ever has been<br>
In itself, this was the motivation for Elle to tackle the terminology head-on. "I feel it excludes younger women," says Candy. "Younger women felt they wouldn't know enough to be a feminist, if you haven't read Germaine Greer or Marilyn French� I think there is still a lot of confusion around it, and I think the word remains quite contentiou<br><br>


Elle sought to unpick the meaning behind the word, rather than just splashing it across its front-page. However, the issue with feminism in fashion for some is exactly that: the use of the term for simple, superficial sloganeering. "It absolutely has become a buzzword," says Reni Eddo-Lodge, a journalist and contributing editor to the website Feminist Times, "and a lot of the time there is a lot of confusion about what it means. There isn't a huge, joined-up movement like there was 30 or 40 years ago. There's no agreement." For Eddo-Lodge, this is an enormous iss<br><br>
: <math>
(\pi\ominus\sigma)(i) = \begin{cases} \pi(i)+n & \text{for }1\le i\le m, \\
\sigma(i-m) & \text{for }m+1\le i\le m+n,\end{cases}
</math>


"The word is meaningless if there are no politics to back it up� Ultimately feminism is a political moveme<br>."
and the direct sum of ''π'' and ''σ'' is the permutation of length ''m''&nbsp;+&nbsp;''n'' defined by
Politics are often rinsed from fashionable feminism. It's understandable: fashion is primarily visual, so aesthetic elements do the talking, unless you're literally sloganeering, in the manner of Katharine Hamnett in the 1980s. "This collection really became about female power," said the jewellery designer Eddie Borgo of his spring 2014 collection. "It gives [women] strength." The collection could easily have been interpreted as punk, with its zip-teeth and razor-sharp ed<br><br>


But punk is very 2013. Generally, designers scrabble after the same grab-bag of "feminist" signifiers: clich�s of the "tough woman" or "power dressing," big shoulders, high heels, zips and studs. "Some people consider feminism to be climbing into the boardroom, becoming Sheryl Sandberg," says Eddo-Lo<br>e.
: <math>
"Feminism for me is about liberation from structural power." That's much more difficult to evoke in a skirt-s<br>t.
(\pi\oplus\sigma)(i) = \begin{cases} \pi(i) & \text{for }1\le i\le m,\\
Other designers' work can be more unexpectedly interpreted as feminist: the fact that JW Anderson cross-pollinates the wardrobes of men and women, for instance, to the extent that he cut his winter 2013 menswear trousers without a phallocentric masculine bu<br><br>
\sigma(i-m)+m & \text{for }m+1\le i\le m+n.\end{cases}
</math>


He may not approach fashion with a strictly feminist intent, but it is easy to interpret Anderson's clothes as such. The same is true of Phoebe Philo, arguably the spark that ignited the feminism and fashion debate. She left her previous role at Chlo� to focus on her personal life, and moved the C�line studio to London when she took over the house's reins in <br><br>.
==Examples==
The skew sum of the permutations ''π'' = 2413 and ''σ'' = 35142 is 796835142 (the last five entries are equal to ''σ'', while the first four entries come from shifting the entries of ''π'') while their direct sum is 241379586 (the first four entries are equal to ''π'', while the last five come from shifting the entries of ''σ'').


Celine's designer, Pheobe <br>ilo
== Sums of permutations as [[matrix (mathematics)|matrices]] ==
"One of the things we share is the reality that the clothes we design are actually worn," says fellow designer Stella McCartney about Philo's output. That reality of dressing working women with a sense of the practical, as well as the fashionable, is often seen as femi<br><br>.


"The flat shoe has been a big trend," adds Candy. "Those cripplingly high shoes aren't coming through anymore. Maybe it's a subconscious thing - of just being nicer to women!" What could be more feminist than <br>at?
If ''M''<sub>''π''</sub> and ''M''<sub>''σ''</sub> are the [[permutation matrix|permutation matrices]] corresponding to ''π'' and ''σ'', respectively, then the permutation matrix <math>M_{\pi \ominus \sigma}</math> corresponding to the skew sum <math>\pi \ominus \sigma</math> is given by
My own issues with feminism and fashion are simple: fashion is an industry, and feminism, as Eddo-Lodge succinctly puts it, is a political movement with distinct aims for equality between the sexes. The trouble with tying such noble aims to fashion is that it can look like you're trying to tug on heartstrings to hawk somet<br><br>.


"As a fashion magazine, a lot of criticism around us was 'How dare you engage with this?' - given that a lot of what we do is about make-up, and nail polish and handbags," says Candy of Elle's rebranding campaign. "How could we say that when we place so much emphasis on how women look? But how women look is incredibly important to their day-to-day li<br>s."
: <math>M_{\pi \ominus \sigma} = \begin{bmatrix} 0 & M_\pi \\ M_\sigma & 0 \end{bmatrix}</math>,
Activists of the feminist movement FEMEN protest on the catwalk as models present creations for Nina Ricci during the 2014 Spring/Summer ready-to-wear collection fashion <br><br>  


Some argue that simply raising the profile of the word, and stimulating discussion of feminism in popular culture, is valuable enough. Eddo-Lodge has other [http://Search.huffingtonpost.com/search?q=feelings&s_it=header_form_v1 feelings]. "Wishy-washy awareness-raising is good, but it almost adds to the confusion. What does it mean? What are the politics behind it?" But for Candy, engagement with the "Rebranding Feminism" campaign has fundamentally altered the way she w<br>ks.
and the permutation matrix <math>M_{\pi \oplus \sigma}</math> corresponding to the direct sum <math>\pi \oplus \sigma</math> is given by
"Are we patronising women? Are we doing things that are accidentally sexist? Are we writing in the right language?" These are questions she throws out to herself, rather than at the world at l<br><br>.


There is even an argument that the mere act of embracing the fashion industry is intrinsically feminist. "Feminine things like fashion and beauty are often considered less worthy pursuits," reasons Eddo-Lodge. "Some feminists talk about 'fem phobia', of heaping disgust on things that are seen as traditionally feminine, so in a way I think embracing fashion can be hugely liberating for women and men." That's a resolutely modern idea of feminism: "I was a feminist in the sixties," [http://Search.Un.org/search?ie=utf8&site=un_org&output=xml_no_dtd&client=UN_Website_en&num=10&lr=lang_en&proxystylesheet=UN_Website_en&oe=utf8&q=stated+Miuccia&Submit=Go stated Miuccia] Prada in <br><br>.
: <math>M_{\pi \oplus \sigma} = \begin{bmatrix} M_\pi & 0 \\ 0 & M_\sigma \end{bmatrix}</math>,


"Can you imagine? The worst thing I could have done was to be in fashion." Not any more.
where here the symbol "0" is used to represent rectangular blocks of zero entries.  Following the example of the preceding section, we have (suppressing all 0 entries) that
 
:<math>M_{2413} = \begin{bmatrix} &1&& \\ &&&1 \\ 1&&& \\ &&1& \end{bmatrix}</math>,  <math>M_{35142} = \begin{bmatrix} &&1&& \\ &&&&1 \\ 1&&&& \\ &&&1& \\ &1&&&\end{bmatrix}</math>,
:<math>M_{2413\ominus35142} = M_{796835142} = \begin{bmatrix} &&&&&&1&&& \\ &&&&&&&&1 \\ &&&&&1&&& \\ &&&&&&&1& \\&&1&&&&&& \\ &&&&1&&&& \\ 1&&&&&&&& \\ &&&1&&&&& \\ &1&&&&&&&\end{bmatrix}</math>
and
:<math>M_{2413\oplus35142} = M_{241379586} = \begin{bmatrix} &1&&&&&&& \\ &&&1&&&&& \\ 1&&&&&&&& \\ &&1&&&&&& \\ &&&&&&1&& \\ &&&&&&&&1 \\ &&&&1&&&& \\ &&&&&&&1& \\ &&&&&1&&&\end{bmatrix} </math>.
 
== Role in pattern avoidance ==
Skew and direct sums of permutations appear (among other places) in the study of [[pattern avoidance]] in permutations.  Breaking permutations down as skew and/or direct sums of a maximal number of parts (that is, decomposing into indecomposable parts) is one of several possible techniques used to study the structure of, and so to enumerate, pattern classes.<ref>Michael Albert and M. D. Atkinson, Pattern classes and priority queues, arXiv:1202.1542v1</ref><ref>M. D. Atkinson, [[Bruce Sagan|Bruce E. Sagan]], Vincent Vatter, Counting (3+1) - Avoiding permutations, European Journal of Combinatorics, arXiv:1102.5568v1</ref><ref>Albert, M.H. and Atkinson, M.D. Simple permutations and pattern restricted permutations. Discrete Math. 300, 1-3 (2005), 1–15.</ref>
 
Permutations whose decomposition by skew and direct sums into a maximal number of parts are called [[separable permutations]]; they arise in the study of sortability theory, and can also be characterized as permutations avoiding the [[permutation pattern]]s 2413 and 3142.
 
== Properties ==
The skew and direct sums are [[associative property|associative]] but not [[commutative property|commutative]], and they do not associate with each other (i.e., for permutations ''π'', ''σ'' and ''&tau;'' we typically have <math>\pi \oplus(\sigma \ominus \tau) \neq (\pi \oplus \sigma) \ominus \tau</math>).
 
Given permutations ''π'' and ''σ'', we have
 
:<math>(\pi \oplus \sigma)^{-1} = \pi ^{-1} \oplus \sigma^{-1}</math> &nbsp; and &nbsp; <math>(\pi \ominus \sigma)^{-1} = \sigma^{-1} \ominus \pi ^{-1}</math>.
 
Given a permutation ''&omega;'', define its ''reverse'' rev(''&omega;'') to be the permutation whose entries appear in the opposite order of those of ''&omega;'' when written in [[one-line notation]]; for example, the reverse of 25143 is 34152.  (As permutation matrices, this operation is reflection across a horizontal axis.)  Then the skew and direct sums of permutations are related by
 
: <math>\pi \oplus \sigma = \operatorname{rev}(\operatorname{rev}(\sigma) \ominus \operatorname{rev}(\pi))</math>.
 
==References==
{{reflist}}
 
[[Category:Permutations]]

Latest revision as of 02:49, 24 February 2013

In combinatorics, the skew sum and direct sum of permutations are two operations to combine shorter permutations into longer ones. Given a permutation π of length m and the permutation σ of length n, the skew sum of π and σ is the permutation of length m + n defined by

and the direct sum of π and σ is the permutation of length m + n defined by

Examples

The skew sum of the permutations π = 2413 and σ = 35142 is 796835142 (the last five entries are equal to σ, while the first four entries come from shifting the entries of π) while their direct sum is 241379586 (the first four entries are equal to π, while the last five come from shifting the entries of σ).

Sums of permutations as matrices

If Mπ and Mσ are the permutation matrices corresponding to π and σ, respectively, then the permutation matrix corresponding to the skew sum is given by

,

and the permutation matrix corresponding to the direct sum is given by

,

where here the symbol "0" is used to represent rectangular blocks of zero entries. Following the example of the preceding section, we have (suppressing all 0 entries) that

, ,

and

.

Role in pattern avoidance

Skew and direct sums of permutations appear (among other places) in the study of pattern avoidance in permutations. Breaking permutations down as skew and/or direct sums of a maximal number of parts (that is, decomposing into indecomposable parts) is one of several possible techniques used to study the structure of, and so to enumerate, pattern classes.[1][2][3]

Permutations whose decomposition by skew and direct sums into a maximal number of parts are called separable permutations; they arise in the study of sortability theory, and can also be characterized as permutations avoiding the permutation patterns 2413 and 3142.

Properties

The skew and direct sums are associative but not commutative, and they do not associate with each other (i.e., for permutations π, σ and τ we typically have ).

Given permutations π and σ, we have

  and   .

Given a permutation ω, define its reverse rev(ω) to be the permutation whose entries appear in the opposite order of those of ω when written in one-line notation; for example, the reverse of 25143 is 34152. (As permutation matrices, this operation is reflection across a horizontal axis.) Then the skew and direct sums of permutations are related by

.

References

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  1. Michael Albert and M. D. Atkinson, Pattern classes and priority queues, arXiv:1202.1542v1
  2. M. D. Atkinson, Bruce E. Sagan, Vincent Vatter, Counting (3+1) - Avoiding permutations, European Journal of Combinatorics, arXiv:1102.5568v1
  3. Albert, M.H. and Atkinson, M.D. Simple permutations and pattern restricted permutations. Discrete Math. 300, 1-3 (2005), 1–15.